Careers Interview #7: The Head of Costume at the English National Ballet

1.What does your job actually involve?

Running a busy ballet department, this means all aspects of getting costumes onto dancers on stage. From the page to the stage I sometimes say! Research is sometimes involved tracing old references or researching reference for new costumes.

Working with designers or designing myself, discussing the style look, cuts etc. Selecting suitable fabrics, and trims. Overseeing the buying, and dyeing, printing, painting of these fabrics and trims. Importing & transportation and general logistics often involved.

Commissioning outworkers to make costumes and accessories. (I only have 1 in house cutter) so mostly made by outworkers. Distributing  fabrics and trims to outworkers. Organising fittings; at least 2 per costume (sometimes more) booking fittings with ballet staff to fit in with dancers rehearsal schedule, at least a week or more in advance, overseeing fittings. Attending stage and Dress rehearsals and resolving issues that arise from that. Liaising with touring department, shoe & wig supervisors, other departments.

All admin involved with the department, lists of new costumes and accessories, hires slaes etc etc  -its endless!

2.What previous jobs have you had?

All mostly in the same sort of business.

Freelance: Design assistant on an opera at Met in New York, and Sante Fe Opera. Supervised a couple Ballets for San Francisco Ballet and Costume Supervisor at Royal Opera House for 7 years, mainly for Ballet but also for a few Operas. Also worked for the BBC, mainly on period dramas and in Theatre.

3.What qualifications do you have?

Usual O’ levels etc and 2 year Foundation Course in Art & Design, BA in Art & Design, P.G.C.E Art & Design.

4.How did you land your current job?

I was asked to supervise the first in the round ballet for ENB at the Royal Albert Hall and then was asked to run the department.

5. Is it what you expected?

In this business you learn that it is never what you expect! Even ballets that have been in rep for 30-40 years suddenly change at the last minute -that can be a bit challenging!

6.What is the best aspect of your job?

Working with fabulous fabrics and colours, and also many wonderful talented people. Many of the people involved have been in the business for a long time and are really skilled craftspeople and often great, crazy personalities!

7.What is the worst aspect?

Last minute changes, designers that are not experienced in ballet, and Divas, luckily we do not have these problems very often.

8.What kind of person generally succeeds in your industry?

Someone talented and quite resilient, one has to have strong work ethic to survive and a passion for what they do otherwise they wouldn’t survive the demands!

9.What advice would you give to someone looking to get into your line of work?

Experience is key and one can always learn from every situation, start small and work your way up gradually.

You need to expect to work you way up and learn along the way, it is not a quick process and years of experience pay off in the long run Also, an ability to quietly observe and learn, and be as helpful as possible and not expect to be the star attraction!